Tx & NM, Guadalupe Mountains, Carlsbad Caverns & White Sands NPs

Sunday, Mar 10

Travel Day

We have TSA Pre Check (only $78 every 5 years). A short security line, you keep your shoes on and your electronics in your bag, highly recommended. Early flight and with the time change we arrived in El Paso before noon. stopped at the Cattle Baron for lunch before the 2 hour drive to the park.

About Guadalupe Mountains National Park

From the Nat Park Web site. "Guadalupe Mountains National Park includes 86,416 acres in west Texas, just south of the New Mexico state line and north of U.S. Highway 62/180. The Guadalupe Mountains rise more than 3,000 feet above the arid Chihuahuan Desert that surrounds them. El Capitan, the park’s most striking feature, is a 1,000-foot-high limestone cliff. Nearby Guadalupe Peak, 8,751 feet above sea level, is the highest point in Texas.

The Guadalupe Mountains are part of a mostly buried 400-mile-long U-shaped fossil reef complex, Capitan Reef, which extends through a large area of west Texas and southeastern New Mexico. The longest exposed stretch of Capitan Reef, 12 miles of which is in the park, extends from Guadalupe Mountains National Park northeast almost to the city of Carlsbad, New Mexico, a distance of almost 40 miles. This 260-million- to 270-million-year-old reef is one of the world’s finest examples of an ancient reef system. The fossilbearing strata of the park are also associated with the rich “oil patch” of the Delaware Basin of west Texas. Three internationally significant geological stratotype sections and points and numerous type sections of rock are present in the park."

You can read more about the park here: Guadalupe Mountains National Park.
And about the geology here: Guadalupe Mountains National Park Coral Reefs.

Guadalupe Mountains National Park

The drive to the park is through the Chihuahuan Desert with very few vehicles on the road. We thought we would have the park to ourselves. We were wrong. When we arrived at the Pine Springs entrance all parking lots were at capacity and the ranger was turning us around to exit the park. Turns out it is spring break and the place was packed! But, we got lucky, just as we were about to leave the park volunteer at the trail head said a couple spots opened up and the ranger let us head up to the parking lot. Whew, better lucky than good!

Devils Hall Trail

This was an interesting and challenging trail. After about a 1/2 mile it leads into the dried up river wash. I was expecting a sand and gravel bed. Instead it was filled with boulders! We spent the next 2 miles climbing over and around boulders...lots of fun! It was challenging picking the best route through the boulder field. It was an out and back hike so, we repeated all the fun on the way back, our legs were feeling it. A great hike and even though the park was packed, the hike wasn't crowded at all.

And a video

Drove 50 miles North to Carlsbad, NM where we are staying 3 nights in an airbnb. The airbnb (208 Ferndale St, Carlsbad) was a small remodeled two bedroom house that was OK. Not a lot to pick from in Carlsbad! Had Chile Rellanos for dinner at Diemente Restaurant. Tasty.

Monday, Mar 11

Weather: 60s - 70s, sunny.

Guadalupe Mountains NP, McKittrick Area - Pratt Cabin and Grotto Hike

Back to Guadalupe early (to get parking!) in the McKittrick Area. Did a long hike (~8 miles) out to the Pratt Cabin and then onto the Grotto area. The hike is in the canyon and reminded both of us a lot like our hikes in Zion but a lot less crowded. As we got to the cabin the park volunteer was just opening it up so we went inside and listened to the interesting story about the cabin and it's owners. You can read more about it here: Pratt Cabin.

After relaxing on the porch we continued onto the Grotto which is an exposed section of cave (prelude to tomorrow). Everything is built with stone even the picnic tables! Then back to the trail head. An easy, long hike, lightly trafficked. Excellent!

And a video

Then, back to the bnb in Carlsbad and Kathryn made us hamburgers for dinner.

Tuesday, Mar 12

Weather: 60s - 70s, sunny, windy

About Carlsbad Caverns National Park

"Speleogenesis: How Carlsbad Cavern was Formed

Most of the caves people are familiar with (such as Mammoth Cave in Kentucky) were formed by rainwater slowly dissolving limestone. Water sinking through enlarged fractures and sinkholes eventually grew to become underground streams and rivers carving out complex cave systems. The caves of the Guadalupe Mountains were formed in a much different way.

Between four and six million years ago, hydrogen-sulfide-rich (H2S) waters began to migrate through fractures and faults in the Capitan limestone. This water mixed with rainwater moving downward from the surface. When the two waters mixed, the H2S combined with the oxygen carried by the rainwater and formed sulfuric acid (H2SO4). This acid dissolved the limestone along fractures and folds in the rock to form Carlsbad Cavern. This process left behind massive gypsum deposits, clay, and silt as evidence of how the cave was formed.

With time, the active level dropped to form deeper cave passages. In abandoned cave passages above, blocks fell from the ceiling and speleothems (cave formations) began to grow. Around four million years ago, speleogenesis ceased in the area around Carlsbad Cavern and the cave began to take on the look it has today."

You can learn more about the Cave here: Carlsbad Caverns.

Carlsbad Caverns Self Guided Cave Tour

Just North of Guadalupe Mountains NP and 18 miles South from Carlsbad is Carlsbad Caverns National Park. We bought tickets (you need to buy them online before you get to the park) for the self guided cave tour ($1 each!). You can take an elevator down to the "Big Room" but that's no fun. We opted to enter through the caves natural entrance (highly recommended) and took switchbacks for a little over a mile descending 750 feet into the cave. The decent took us through the Bat Cave, the Devil's Spring, the Devils Den, the Main Corridor, the Iceberg Rock, the Boneyard, the Jim White tunnel, and the Painted Grotto finally arriving at the Big Room. The Big Room has an amazing 1.2 mile loop the takes you past Giant Dome, Twin Domes, Temple of the Giants, Caveman Junction, Totem Pole, View of Lower Cave, Top of the Cross, Mirror Lake, Bottomless Pit, Crystal Spring Dome and back to the Painted Grotto. Although Mammoth Cave (we visited last year) was huge, this one had so many more incredible features and formations. Kind of like Bryce Canyon but a cave, every few steps you saw something new.

Even though the park was busy with spring break, not many entered via the natural entrance and even in the big room often you couldn't see another person. Very cool.

Unfortunately (or not) you exit the cave via an elevator that takes you back to the top.

And some videos

Old Guano Trail

After we exited the cave we found a nice picnic spot for lunch and then started a hike above ground. Then, started hiking the Old Guano Trail. Turned out to be very boring, hot, windy and we decided to bag it after about a mile.

Back for one more night in Carlsbad and had dinner at the Lucky Bull.

Wednesday, 3/13

Weather: 70s, sunny, windy

About White Sands National Park

"Like No Place Else on Earth
Rising from the heart of the Tularosa Basin is one of the world's great natural wonders - the glistening white sands of New Mexico. Great wave-like dunes of gypsum sand have engulfed 275 square miles of desert, creating the world's largest gypsum dunefield. White Sands National Park preserves a major portion of this unique dunefield, along with the plants and animals that live here. "
You can learn more about White Sands NP here: White Sands National Park.
You can learn more about the Geology here: White Sands Geology.

Playa and Dune Life Nature Trails

Lunch in White Sands National Park

Stopped at the Primrose picnic area for lunch. The wind blows hard but, nicely, they put up all these shelters to protect you from the wind..nice. Turns out White Sands is hugely popular with the kids for sledding. They rent sleds or you can bring your own. Lot's of families spend the day picnicking and sledding on the dunes.

Backcountry Camping Trail

And some videos

After enjoying White Sands we drove to the nearby town of Alamogordo, had dinner at Chili's and stayed at the Hampton Inn. Clean and comfortable

Thursday, Mar 14

Weather: 70s

We drove back to the White Sands area to visit the missile museum. On March 16th - 17th (just 2 days from our visit) they are closing the roads to the museum due to the Bataan Memorial Death March annual event. Got lucky yet again!

About White Sands Missile Range

"It began with a test of the world’s first atomic bomb in 1945. After 76 years and more than 42,000 rocket and missile tests, however, White Sands Missile Range continues as the premier military test range in America, earning its title as “Birthplace of America’s Missile and Space Activity.”

Comprised of 3,200 squares miles (roughly the size of Rhode Island and Delaware) White Sands Missile Range supports the Army, Navy and Air Force, as well as commercial and international users on a reimbursable basis while conducting more than 3,000 tests annually."
You can read more about the missile range here:White Sands Missile Range.
And the museum here: White Sands Missile Range Museum.

White Sands Missile Range Museum

After walking through the museum we went out to the missile field which contains over 50 missiles and launch vehicles.

Drove back to El Paso staying at the Hampton Inn airport just 5 minutes from our hotel since we have an earlier flight. On the way had lunch at a rest stop overlooking El Paso.

Went to dinner in downtown El Paso at the Park Tavern. Kathryn had Bronzino and I had Salmon. Tasty for our last night of the trip.

Friday, March 15

Weather: 60s El Paso, 50s Saint Charles

5 minute drive to the small El Paso airport. Dropped off the car, breezed through TSA with pre-check, at our gate about a 1/2 hour after we left the hotel. Flight left late but arrived on time. American Coach Limousine (as always) to home.

Home Sweet Home.

Summary

Guadalupe Mountains National Park: Excellent! My favorite was the McKittric area but Pine Springs area had lots to offer too.
Carlsbad Caverns National Park: It was amazing. I thought Mammouth Cave in KY could not be beat. This beats it!
White Sands National Park: Out of this world. We felt like we were in the Sahara dessert! No place else like it.
White Sands Missile Test Site Museum: Very Cool. Sobering.
Carlsbad, NM: Small, low income, friendly
El Paso, TX: First impression was nice.